Walk Like a Local: Discovering the True Gjirokastra
Gjirokastra, known as a UNESCO city and an open-air museum, is often associated with its lively bazaar filled with shops, restaurants, and bars. During the high tourist season, this part of the city bursts with nightlife and the sound of visitors. However, Gjirokastra is much more than its bazaar. In fact, due to the fast-paced rhythm of tourism, the bazaar sometimes loses the authenticity and mystique that define this city.
If you want to see the real Gjirokastra—experience the uphill climbs, the strain in your legs, the breathtaking surprises at every turn, and the hidden architectural treasures—you need to go beyond the bazaar. Let us take you through the five historic neighborhoods of old Gjirokastra and introduce you to the essence of the city, as told by its oldest and wisest residents.
The Five Historic Neighborhoods of Gjirokastra
Old Gjirokastra is composed of five neighborhoods—Dunavat 1, Dunavat 2, Manalat, Cfaka, and Palorto—all extending outward from the castle. It is believed that people once lived inside the fortress itself, but no significant remains exist today to confirm this.
Each neighborhood has its own unique character, history, and stories, and understanding them will help you grasp the city’s true identity.
Dunavat 1 & Dunavat 2 – The Stone Workers’ Neighborhood
Dunavat 1 and 2 are quite similar in structure and the type of people who have lived there for generations. According to the city’s elders, the men of this neighborhood were often seen carrying a pickaxe, a tool they used to extract stone slabs from the surrounding mountains. These slabs were—and still are—used to cover the rooftops of Gjirokastra’s characteristic houses.
During winter, these neighborhoods often experience snowfall, as they are positioned at a higher altitude than the rest of the city. The streets are narrow, the houses are close together, and they are strategically positioned to capture as much sunlight as possible. Today, the number of residents has significantly decreased due to the challenges of daily life—steep climbs, economic difficulties, and modern migration trends. However, this has allowed the architecture to remain largely intact.
If you visit Dunavat, you might encounter elderly locals who are always open to conversation. We highly recommend chatting with them or even visiting their homes—you will likely be offered some delicious homemade food and a glass of traditional raki, free of charge!
Cfaka – The Neighborhood of the Black Stone
Located behind the castle on a sloping hillside, Cfaka has long been prone to landslides, sometimes endangering the lives of its residents. Despite these challenges, people continue to live here, and the houses retain the same architectural features found throughout the city.
This neighborhood is known as “The Sunlit Quarter” and “The Quarter of the Black Stone” due to the unique geological formations found in the area. Even the houses are constructed using this distinct dark stone. Historically, it was home to the city’s middle-class families. Today, as the city center expands due to tourism, Cfaka remains relatively underdeveloped in terms of structured economic growth. However, the neighborhood is beginning to see the first signs of accommodation services opening up to visitors.
Manalat – The Warmest Neighborhood
Manalat is known for receiving ample sunlight throughout the day. Positioned in a valley between hills, the houses here are simpler compared to other neighborhoods. Despite their modest design, some of them are officially recognized as first-category cultural monuments.
The people of Manalat are known for their hospitality, especially toward tourists. It is common to be greeted warmly while exploring the neighborhood, making it one of the most welcoming areas of the city.
Palorto – The Quarter of the Intellectuals and the Wealthy
We’ve saved Palorto for last because it has historically been considered the most prestigious neighborhood in Gjirokastra. This area has long been home to the city’s wealthiest and most influential figures, including notable historical personalities such as Enver Hoxha and Ismail Kadare.
Due to its proximity to the bazaar—which historically functioned as the city’s main commercial hub—Palorto’s residents enjoyed a significantly higher economic status than those in other neighborhoods. This affluence was reflected in their lifestyle, their houses, and the overall well-being of the area’s residents.
Even today, people born and raised in Palorto take great pride in their heritage and continue to pass on their stories to future generations.
Experience Gjirokastra Like a Local
Gjirokastra is not just a place to visit—it is a city to be experienced. If you want to truly understand it, step away from the tourist-filled bazaar and walk through the hidden paths of its historic neighborhoods. Meet the locals, hear their stories, and immerse yourself in the city’s authentic charm.
Are you ready to walk like a local? Gjirokastra is waiting for you! If you prefer a guided experience and want to make the most out of your visit, you can book a tour with us to explore these hidden gems with a local expert. Let us show you the real Gjirokastra!